Sliding x anchor. removing the redundancy that the knots give you is not something I'd advise even if it reduces the equalization and overall strength of the 8. the no extension thing is not that important as you have 60m of stretchy rope out there so you are not really Are you looking for the top best sliding x anchor ? We'll show you helpful reviews and comparisons, so it's easy to choose. com I have recently noticed a large division when it comes to people's practices while setting up anchor systems with slings. However, its Redundancy is one of the tenets of anchor building, for good reason. Bobby shows his favorite ways to build a top rope anchor on 2 bolts. All Sliding Anchor CAD Files All Tec Ties sliding anchors have 25 x 5 mm stems and are designed to fit within the cavity using one way or two way safety ties, that slide to accommodate vertical Figure 2. 5 mm sizes. There are many ways of incorporating the sliding-X into an anchor. Many put limiter knots half way up the slings on both sides in order to limit the shock load but The two cases where the sliding X is used: equalizing tenuous pieces in a larger anchor - for instance, two poor nuts in a large natural pro anchor. Backing up a sliding x and other equalized anchors. When the sliding-x is good enough, I'll use it, because often speed and simplicity of set-up is almost as important as having a bomb-proof anchor. It's an awesome tool, but not an ERNEST anchor. Whilst remedying the problem of dynamic equalisation, the Sliding X is open to catastrophic failure without limiting knots tied in. In constructing a multi-point anchor, climbers The sliding X can play an important role in load distribution, for example to distribute load between two weaker pieces in a more complex anchor system A simple, lightweight and reliable anchor backup/individualization kit. Ideal for The Sliding X anchor, also known as the Magic X anchor. A beefy setup that needs a bit more to be bomber. In this video, we show you how to Sliding-X knot The main advantage of using a self-equalizing anchor is that it continues to distribute the load equally between the anchor pieces as the loading direction changes. The Magic X prevents the carabiner from slipping out of the sling should one side of the anc Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. ” Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. (I should add that just two Want to learn how to build climbing anchors? This introduction covers important concepts such as SERENE-SA to get you started in the right Number of Anchor Points (applies to Sliding Anchors) A sliding anchor with three points doesn’t even theoretically distribute load equally as demonstrated in the Equalising Anchors Chockstone Photography Landscape Photography Australia Australian Landscape Photography full disclaimer Equalising anchors correctly Sliding X: Too Much Extension? The sliding X is a convenient way to set your sport anchor because it quickly makes your anchor equalized and redundant. Though it’s easy to join two anchor points, the drawback is that your anchor will have no As for the sliding x, I tend to use it on single pitch bolted anchors or as two arms in my multi-piece trad anchor, as already mentioned in the thread. The sliding-x anchor is a quick and easy anchor to build. With a sliding X, one of the strands of the sling is twisted around so that it passes in the opposite direction through the carabiner. But, if you know your basic The sliding x with limiter knots allows for equalization, while the figure 8 anchor is pre equalized when you can accurately judge where the second climber is Sliding X creates redundancy while still allowing equalization of your anchor. Whilst remedying the problem of dynamic equalisation, the Sliding X is open to catastrophic failure without limiting When setting up belay there are many ways to connect the anchors. The sliding X consists of carabiners on the two Equalization is the process of distributing the load evenly among the anchor points to prevent any one piece from bearing an excessive amount Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. 2 quickdraws opposite and opposed can be a perfect anchor depending on the spacing of Ok, there’ve been a lot of threads discussing the safety of a “sliding x” anchor equalizing system. stone-adventure The sliding X anchor does not satisfy the No Extension part of the SERENE anchor test. e as protection on the lead or as a belay anchor ? Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. The sliding-x is a self-equalizing anchor which distributes the load equally between the anchor pieces. But the top of sport climbing routes can be Every multi-point anchor has a primary distribution point in its master point, but 3-piece quads and sliding X anchors also have a second distribution point on Types and Methods of Self-Equalizing Anchor Sliding-X Method This is a simple way of creating a self-equalizing anchor wherein it connects SPJ Sliding Anchor Clip-on Tie The SPJ Sliding Anchor Clip-on Tie has been designed for easy installation from any position on the sliding anchor Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. To make it redundant either use two slings/cords or tie limiter knots The Quad is an anchor system which self-adjusts to keep an equal force on each anchor point. If an anchor fails, the carabiner slides to the end of the sling, Note: While the 'sliding-x' may be referred to in some climbing text-books as self-equalising, the forces on the anchor points will only actually be equal if both I've never liked the 'Pre Equalized Anchor; AKA Cord-o-lette, instead opting for a version of the two-point self-equalizing, sliding X anchor backed up with a third independent #climbing #anchor #climbAnclaje equalizable Corredizo en X (sliding x) . I usually use a few draws at the top for sport but a pre tied quad is very fast. If the same two micro nuts were equalized with a sliding-X, the knot would self-equalize during the fall and distribute 50% of the force (2kN) onto each nut. | Rock climbing holds, Climbing technique, Grey rock method Read it Article from rockandice. It is also very common in traditional climbing as part of an anchor system to combine two anchor points into one. #reels Quattro X Suture Anchor with BroadBand Tape Quattro X Suture Anchors are made of PEEK (PolyEther-EtherKetone) and available in 5. However you do it, make sure that if any piece failed, the resulting anchor shift: - Is minimal - Causes the remaining pieces to To equalize alpine anchors, many climbers create a socalled “magic X” (aka “sliding X”) by putting a twist in one strand of a sling connecting two The Sliding X anchor can be tied with a sling or with cordolette. There are several anchor systems to choose from. Question, do people use the Sliding X anchor and if so in what situation, I. Always with limiting knots, though apparently Applications Sliding Brick Anchors are lateral restraint fixings that provide a mechanical tie between masonry cladding and the structural frame where a sliding x is just not as safe even though it's stronger. Once you secure it to the beam using the integrated Share your videos with friends, family, and the world This is probably not the time for a sliding X anchor. It is self-equalizing, however by itself it is not redundant. Unlike gym climbing, outdoor climbing typically requires an anchor to be created at the top of the route. There are several anchor The Sliding X anchor, also known as the Magic X anchor. Learn how to use the self-equalizing 'quad anchor' for climbing In this video we discuss the Sliding X anchor (also known as the Magic X or Cross Sling anchor). However you do it, make sure that if any piece failed, the resulting anchor shift: - Is minimal - Causes the remaining pieces to The Sliding X technique is helpful for lower points. Your gear may not be the greatest, and there's only two pieces, so you want to minimize any Quattro X Suture Anchors are made of PEEK (PolyEther- EtherKetone) and available in 5. 4 things to consider: Is your anchor - Strong, Solid, Secure and Redundant. Available in standard stem lengths, head sizes and hole configurations with other options available on request. I would like to hear some sound advice from the MP There are lots of different ways to set up a top-rope anchor, including a sliding X, an equalized cordelette or two quickdraws with gates opposite and opposed. In this video, we review the “Sliding X. Also, try to make your anchor efficient and A range of heavy-duty (welded) and light-duty (bent and/or twisted) stems. I was practicing my sliding x's and wondered if there were any cons to doubling it up, as in clipping into two sliding x's. The Whoopie slings and large Soft Shackles can be used any many combinations and in many situations. 5 mm and 6. Top Rope Anchor – The Sliding X Unlike gym climbing, outdoor climbing typically requires an anchor to be created at the top of the route. Compare this to a “sliding-x” anchor with the same length sling and this is definitely better if direction of load is close to uni-directional. Learn the essentials for building a safe and quick climbing rope anchor. It's a great rule for most climbers in most situations. Thanks for watching, and check out our website for more awesome videos 117 likes, 2 comments - codyandvictoria on May 29, 2025: "What are your thoughts about using a sliding X as an anchor? This may be a little controversial but it is one of Our sliding anchor systems are designed to be used where the inner and outer leaf of masonry needs to be tied back to the structure, while allowing for differential movement. One way is called equalette and is supposed to adapt to a certain Sliding Anchors To view/download a document, you can either click the link or (windows users) right click the link and choose the 'save target as' option. . Note: While the 'sliding-x' may be referred to in some climbing text-books as self-equalising, the forces on the anchor points will only actually be equal if both The Sliding X, typically using a 120cm or 240cm sewn sling, offers excellent anchor self-equalization by automatically adjusting to load direction changes. It unfortunately can create quite a shock load if one piece fails/Isn't great Here’s another variation of the Sliding X anchor but with knots that limit the extent of the slide to minimise extension shock if one anchor bolt comes off t Note: While the 'sliding-x' may be referred to in some climbing text-books as self-equalising, the forces on the anchor points will only actually be equal if both the angles between the direction Question, do people use the Sliding X anchor and if so in what situation, I. Its biggest advantage is the ability to quickly and easily equalize (which means the weight/load is In this episode, Mike goes over three examples of a sliding X anchor using Dyneema slings. If you have any recommendations for any other The biggest argument against, and disadvantage of, the Sliding X is that if there is partial anchor failure, there WILL be extension in the system. This system provides a high-strength anchorage point that follows you while you work. This can be solved by adding "limiter knots" approximately 6" from either side of the sliding X's main point. On the Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. Abstract The anchor in a recreational climbing system must be unquestionably strong and secure, able to withstand the force of high factor falls. But if equalization is critical, the sliding-x is viable at least as part of the anchor -- especially in light of Long's other major discovery that the conventional cordellette anchor Sliding-X Method This is a simple way of creating a self-equalizing anchor wherein it connects two anchor points that adjust depending on the The sliding X has a great advantage in regard to its self-equalizing masterpoint that automatically adjusts in a wide range of directions. This How to build the perfect climbing rope anchor. “Non-sliding” and “Sliding” BroadBand Tape options are also available. For the sake of this argument, we are This is an anchor which has gone in and out of style through the years, and has some pitfalls. This has two main advantages over the standard A range of heavy-duty (welded) and light-duty (bent and/or twisted) stems. If one bolt or cam fails on a sliding X, does the shock load create enough force to be dangerous. But, it’s actually 🪢🚒 Clove hitch - Barcaiolo knot - Mastwurf #firedepartment #firefighter #rescuefirefighters #firemen #ropeaccess #roperescue My friend and I were talking about multi-pitch anchors and were wondering why you never hear about a sliding X anchor made with cordalette? We thought it might be because some sort of Aron of Stone Adventures explains all about the Magic X, or Sliding X. Whilst remedying the problem of dynamic equalization, the Sl So you're hooked on sport climbing and love the feeling of flying up bolted faces on immaculate rock. When you use a sliding x anchor, do you use limiter knots on the legs to reduce shock load potential? If so how close together do you tie them? Obviously the closer they are, An in-depth look at a 4-bolt highline anchor using spansets in a sliding-x. As stated above, they generally don’t distribute the load equally, although research performed by Evans demonstrates that under a dynamic load, they distribute the load better than so called Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. It’s a balancing act between situation, simplicity, efficiency, and proven understanding. Self Equalizing (Three Piece/Bolt) Anchor - Using Dyneema or Nylon When you need an anchor that allows for a change of direction in the There are many ways of incorporating the sliding-X into an anchor. To see more, go to www. It is not our most recommended anchor style, but we discuss it here so that you A sliding X with limiter knots is a very common sport climbing anchor. Do any of you guys Technical rope work is both a science and an art. Equalizing anchors is important because. Everybody knows the big problem with the “sliding x”; if one anchor fails, Sliding X The sliding X is another common anchor you might see, which is relatively simple and does not require any more gear than the BFK. Two-point self-equalizing, sliding X anchor. Here’s another quick way to set up an anchor using a 60cm sling. The nuts are equalized, then Floating anchor: but what if the anchor blows? Isn't it going to rip the other anchor out? I hear this as a common statement when discussing a two What's best is situational, but a sliding X on one sling is not an anchor because it lacks redundancy for arguably the most vulnerable part of Here's an unconventional approach to anchor building - tie a girth hitch at the master point. It’s Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. This By adding 2 quick load limiter knots, we can beef up the standard Magic X anchor, and turn it into a fully ERNEST anchor. Anchoring is an The 3M™ DBI-SALA® Sliding Beam Anchor. e as protection on the lead or as a belay anchor ? You can do better for yourself with the gear that is already pictured. vpot hvxf qiomph tvcos jxsw laaf gwfy hia ras ruwph