Climbing nuts vs hexes size chart reddit. the Chart to Show Your Non-Climber Friends 2 comments Best Add a Comment WRXGarage • 30 min. Hexes really come in to their own when winter climbing, they're unaffected by ice and respond very well when you smash them with your ice axe (standard practice, can help a lot with An alpine climbing rack should be pretty small and light, you shouldn't have maybe more than around 5 cams and a set of nuts, so carrying a #4, #5, #6 even a #3 seems like a lot of Try a modern rounded hex like the Wild Country Rockcentric, or next best the DMM Torque Nuts and some people might feel differently about it. Nuts are an essential for every trad climber. ago I basically climb everywhere in the western US from the valley to the front range, MT alpine to Cochise, Devil's tower to Joshua tree, Smith Rock to Enchanted Rock in TX and everywhere in between. Src: I can wear a 38eu in la sportiva and it fits approximately the same as a 41. 51 votes, 73 comments. I also run DMM offsets, I feel okay about them. Don't go ancient, make sure they spring back / cam properly. Question about nuts. People don't even size their street shoes the same way, making them a less than ideal starting place. Climbing shoe sizing comparison. I have been looking around and I think black diamond would suit me best. Regular nuts go, I would get a set of regular nuts, just because they are cheaper and you can probably picked up a used set for 40ish bucks on Mountain Project. Traditional climbing: use at your own risk. probably will For gamers who use metric, the 3 and 24 mile hexes are 5 and 40 km hexes, round numbers that make calculations and conversion easy. Very experienced climbers disagree strongly on how tight is tight and what "comfortable" actually means. And I really love them nuts. 5eu in butora **eta I'm located in the Canadian Rockies and most of our trad climbs are limestone with a few quartizite crags. The smaller sizes of the standard set, gold -red, find a lot of use. The thing that worries me is that I had to buy a size that is 1/2 size bigger (38) than my street shoe size (37. Don't let people who don't know what they're talking about scare you. Black diamond cam sizes are not 1:1 with inches, for instance for a 3 inch crack you’d probably place a number 4. Compare their sizes on nut comparison charts. I have small offset nuts but what do people think about normal small nuts. It's a personal choice, but the non-colored ones aren't great. 10 So I have been saving up money to start building a trad rack cause I want to start trad climbing. Everything inside a 3 mile hex is on average around a 30 minute walk, an hour max, and it's really easy to eyeball within the hour. I don't believe it. Was curious what brands people would recommend for nuts, cams, tricams. Because nuts cost much less than cams, it’s common to double up on the small I've been top rope and lead climbing for a few years outside, and I just started to wonder if it might be worth buying a few Trad pieces. I used some evolv climbing shoes that I rented at the gym which I liked a lot . He doesn't use hexes though. I have a set of climbing technology nuts (4-10), made and readily available in Italy (where I am), but I think I need some more. That little gold wire held my first fall, and ever since, brings on good feelings on a lead. Use high strength 5. When I climb on someone else's rack I literally don't even notice- a nut is a nut New hexes have a lot of variability of size so they'll fit a lot of places, that one looks to have sides of equal length so it's more of a glorified nut. I had the bd's first and they are pretty versatile (twist them if you want a taper) and hold up to use/falls pretty well. I'm a new trad climber interested in the long alpine style routes that are often 10+ pitches. Do you guys notice a huge difference as far as ease of placing or how well they hold in the rock when comparing offset stoppers, nuts, and hexes to your basic ones? Would you choose to use one exclusively over the other or a mix of both? Cheers. Any suggestions on what a good “starter pack” would look like as far different cam/nut I also like that the hex color roughly match the sizing for the BD C4/Dragon cam range so it makes getting to know your hexes a little easier (If you use those cams). 5-3 and maybe a couple of hexes. Black Diamond chart says waist size 27-30 is a Small. My biggest concern is probably the nut tool. Don't let DMM's marketing fool you though that those four sizes replace six sizes of conventional hexes. Granite cracks love Dmm offsets. One of my trad friends says his BD #1 stopper is his most useful one. Specifically thinking about free climbing and understand the placements would easily Compare different climbing nuts. 8 generally takes great cams or nuts. Learn how to place, remove and rack climbing hexes. Nut key if you can get one is always a safe purchase. Choose whichever fits best in the placement! Nuts are your bread and butter, with a few hexes for larger sizes. The main thing you need to watch out for in used gear is any fabric components. The torque nuts are great for those larger sizes and have the same color scheme, yet slightly different size from the . Certainly a good deal better than Black Diamond Hexcentrics, and far, far better than Metolius Ultralight Curved hexes. The larger sizes of wired hex's it I go up from street shoe 0. Slings, ropes, cordalettes and things like that should be replaced after a certain period of time has passed. (I wear 46 street shoes and my Ocún Rebels are 45,5). Always seems to go in on the most engaging fun pitches. non lockers are for things like clipping your rope to the wall via bolt, or your own protection (cams, nuts, etc. You can get a confidence inspiring amount of surface contact in a lot of semi flaring placements that are common to that kind of climbing. But it does make it place easier in the cammed position as you are not fighting the stiffness of the wire to get it in place, more so with the small to small end of the medium sizes. 5 for shaman and 1 for phantom) and I find that they are very comfortable and still basically as high performing (for everything but really micro edging) as anything else I have. Sometimes, if there is a long space between bolts or I Compare different climbing nuts. Not sure how small is micro to you but in my experience, if you put a smaller cam on your rack you will definitely place it, and it doesn’t weigh much. I read that as carry the same amount but carry fewer on each DMM wallnut, size 3. Any time people talk about street shoes to climbing so, how do i know if i am a small or a medium? i am between pants sizes now (on my way down), but as of recently a size 32 waist is too big for me and a size 31 fits snuggly. The only place I don't Howdy r/climbing! Now that I have a job at a gym and got my hands on a 5. Nuts are always worth buying second hand; people will be getting rid of the non color coded ones most likely. In the late 1980s into the 1990s in UK climbing, there was a decisive move away from a mix of individually racked hexes of all sizes & medium nuts on cord towards using only larger hexes, plus nuts on wire (with quickdraws) due to ease of use. I wear La Sportiva Theory W’s size 41 for a super snug performance fit (tight enough for edging), Drago LV’s size 42 fit more comfortably with slight bagginess in the heel. The difference between the wide and narrow sides of a nut is about two sizes. Metal doesn't weaken with age, so cabled nuts are fine. I try to save my cams for the first placement, gear anchors or those stances that I Getting into leading trad routes? Learn how to choose types of passive protection, such as chocks, nuts and hexes. Be careful to make sure it is talking about cam sizes and not inches. 1. And yes we are scared of falling. As both #11 nuts in both brands are about the same size. From advice on which gym to visit to videos of world cup IFSC climbers, you can find it all here. I think hexes could be quite bomber. Title says it really. This Cam Size Comparison Chart helps you compare models against one another in terms of sizing and range of use. So I was comparing different nuts and sets, black diamond nuts sizes 1-2 have a strength of 2KN where as wild country sizes 1-2 both have 4KN. Reply buyabighouse • Additional comment actions A subreddit for the indoor bouldering community. My second question: how do you train to be able to do these type of routes quickly? I am looking to get new rock climbing shoes. But on this LS climbing shoe size chart, a 8. ) You will likely need doubles of most sizes. Ask other local climbers and / or consult a regional guidebook for opinions. sometimes -say- #6 it's too small, but #7 is too big). 3- 3, Dmm nuts, as well as their offsets. Very overwhelmed on where to start. 3M subscribers in the climbing community. 73 votes, 32 comments. I generally wear the 5. I own at least 3 full sets but I think I carry doubles in micros and medium sizes, singles in the 4 largest - depending on where I climb EDIT: OK, I see you seem to be saying carry less nuts. 691 votes, 162 comments. I'm running old Tango "made by Hudy Sports" nuts, and I recently realized that they are actually offset in one plane and parallel in another plane. Nuts size 10 or below; Hexes size 4 and above. Once placed you can set them fairly hard. 4M subscribers in the climbing community. I like the CTs, but they aren't very versatile and their sizes don't overlap (e. The BD offsets are incredibly common where I live (boulder CO), I joke they used a few routes in Eldorado Canyon to get a mold for them. That said, folks climbed a lot on nuts, hexes, and tricams before modern camming Nuts and Cams for Sport Climbing Hey Everyone, I've been top rope and lead climbing for a few years outside, and I just started to wonder if it might be worth buying a few Trad pieces. The curve hexes provide a little bit of camming depending on placement which helps mitigate displacement from rope drag as does clipping a long alpine draw if necessary. In reply to derms: 4 things, as follows: - Hexes can usually be placed in 3 orientations to give 3 sizes per unit - nuts usually only manage 2 sizes (although it's not quite this clear cut). Not that hexes are that useful in general (local condition may vary) in that size ranges, cams are more flexible while the tiny hexes don't work any better then nuts. The rock will be basalt and granite, if that makes any difference. Wild Country Rockcentrics are an excellent choice. Honourable mentions to the smaller blue offset, and Locking carabiners are used for things that the opening of a gate would be very bad. g. I am currently building my trad rack and have several cams already and 4-13 in stoppers. Old route descriptions could mention gear in original wild country friend sizing. They are weaker than brassies but a different shape. Although some people prefer to use hexes instead of the larger size nuts. Just use the sideways long end of the nut tool and smack the hex as hard as you can from the wire or sling side like your hitting 85 votes, 37 comments. I have the non-offsets and I don't really love them, but there's a few sizes that I use pretty often, more commonly in granite. E. I’ve been really impressed with how well evolve edge without much As far as Offsets vs. Sometimes, if there is a long space between bolts or I climb past the anchor, it might be nice to have something that I could secure myself with. 734 votes, 137 comments. Anyone ever have issues getting climbing equipment through airport security? I'm bringing a standard trad rack (cams, nuts, hexes, slings, biners, rope, etc) and don't want to check my bag. The home of Climbing on reddit. Next to Tricams, hexes took me the longest to Hexes are cheaper than cams, cams can "walk" hexes don't, they are lighter than a cam and can take a beating especially if you do chimney climbs alot. Looking for advice on where to start. Why? Is the difference in the wires or the metal of the nuts themselves, the shape? I'm leaning towards the wild country nuts because of this. What does your bare-minimum rack consist of? I was thinking maybe 8 alpine draws, 1 set of nuts, BD cams . Cams, depends on how old the model is. 5 and I need new ones as they are 4 years old, and have holes in Nut and Hexes Ranging in size from the thickness of a matchstick to the size of your clenched fist, nuts (also called chocks, wires or stoppers) and hexes are inexpensive pieces of trad protection. Climbing shoe sizes are made up nonsense. 75 up to the #3 BD sizes, I'm sure they match better with DMMs or WCs. 5-9 is a 40-40. As far as wire vs solid gate, its personal preference. One thing to note is that if you have a full set of DMM Wallnuts, you can expand your nut selection by getting Wild Country Rocks sizes 12, 13, and 14. I ended up being a size larger than my street shoes. That depends on the geometry of the hex. Mostly miss. Yes. Hexes, tricams, ball nuts, and big bros are all in the same camp in my mind: you either know when you need them, you carry them out of preference, or you don't know that you don't need them. Anything else I should consider? the addition of torque nuts gives me enough gear to start trad leading. I have a single rack of BD cams from 0. If you’re choosing between street shoe and smaller I think you should stick with street. After that, start picking up doubles in the useful sizes (as you climb more you figure out which ones you end up using a lot), but then definetly get some offsets. Ocún (or Rock Pillars, when you find older stuff) is sizing their climbing shoes very closely to your standard street size. ). They're useful climbing easy limestone. , #4 wide ≈ #6 narrow. looking to get my first leads in CO this weekend. So I’m looking to purchase my first pair of climbing shoes. Small meaning Black diamond 1-4 stoppers or DMM micro wallnuts. Depending on where you are and what you like to climb, there are some additional pieces you will may want (e. Or any advice with starting a Climbing vs Hiking. I will be picking up one to fill the gap between by DMM's and sets of nuts. - Hexes come in a wider range of sizes and go far bigger than nuts will. 10 pro deal, I figured it's time to stop borrowing shoes and buy my own. So I'm seeking potential burner nuts or replacement for the Trango 177 votes, 35 comments. Been mostly 2nding, and using friends rack. With all the climbing cams on the market its difficult to know which ones to buy. Nuts and hexes all have a curved side, this is for camming them in, a fall will cam them in harder. What nut sets do you own? And your opinion of it. While hexes may be used on routes 5. In the beginning of your trad climbing career you should focus on building a solid nut rack Also, the intersection of, "routes where I have plenty of time to place hexes I would feel comfortable falling on" and "routes that are challenging to climb" is pretty small. Otherwise it does have (vague) size classes - a Size 2L warship is going to have a harder time hitting a Size 1S Scopedog, but the Scopedog is going to deal less damage to the warship. Nuts Buying Guide Double Cap Read Time - 9 minutes May 2020 Standard nuts are the backbone of any traditional climbers rack. I've heard that 5. 20K subscribers in the tradclimbing community. I tend to use a lot of passive gear so my stoppers are split between 3 carabiners. This article explains everything about using climbing nuts: placing, racking and removing them. HMS as many as you can get. Learning to lead with just an assortment of nuts & hexes teaches you far more about thinking about your placements and how they're good or bad, even if it is a pain in the ass. That said, those are a couple dope pieces of gear for the smoke room! They have strengths and weaknesses, and I wouldn't argue that they're really an acceptable replacement for cams in modern trad climbing. So where am I starting before I think about sizing down? Do I start at the US size and then size down based on the Eur equivalent size column? It’s tough because Climbing shoes size Yesterday I bought my first "advanced" shoes, scarpa vapor V (non-leathery). Has anyone tried the new So Ills and can share a bit on the sizing comparison between these brands? For free climbing I have a set of bd micro nuts (the original non offset ones) and a partial set of metolius astro nuts. 5 mm cord and use some plastic tubing to fill the extra size of the holes in the bigger pieces. Look for corroded Learn how to place hexes; how to use them passively (like a nut) or actively so they cam into cracks. I was wondering what would be a good size range for cams and how many nuts is enough nuts? I have money for about 6-7 cams and for the nuts I was planning 1-11 in normal nuts, 7-11 in offsets, a set of peenuts 1-5 and hexes, 1-4 Is this good for a beginner trad rack? (Slings and I started climbing trad 3 years ago and used hexes for a full season. Anything related to indoor (and outdoor) goes. I was wondering though which cams are used most, basicly what sizes should I buy? also is it worth getting stoppers in 1-3? In a nut shell tricams are too complex and specialist for most people where a standard nut will do the job for most placements in the smaller sizes and hexes or cams in the larger sizes. Been trad climbing with some buddies for a while now and ready to commit and buy my own rack. 550 votes, 38 comments. 10 spire (gym shoe) in a size 8. Trad climbing opens the door to the adventure of starting a climb well before the sun comes up and stumbling back to the car way after the sun goes down. Recommendations for shoe sizing based on your street shoe size will always be hit or miss. Some climbers There are much smaller nuts, like RPs, and much larger ones, like hexes (see page 28 for more info on specialized passive pro). I find the hexes and offsets tend to have the strongest placements and get So far my favorite things to place have been the DMM torque nuts (hexes), which have been quicker for me to place and much more solid when pulled from any direction. 5). I climb mostly in the adirondacks. The Rockcentrics do come in more sizes, but mostly on the smaller end of the scale. Instinct VSRs size 42 fit fine but can be more snug around the midfoot. Between my BD nuts and my DMM offsets though which have a shape that allows for better placements in irregular cracks with crystals and things, I am very happy since the BDs have the most surface area in "smoother" cracks given more surface area of the nut on the rock compared to the DMM walnuts. 7 and under, everything over 5. Hey, I am a size 28-30 in jeans. You must try on basically every shoe on its own. I've had some success recently with shoe sizing online by In short, trad climbing, more formally known as traditional climbing, is a form of rock climbing that requires placing your own gear for protection, rather than solely relying on pre-placed bolts. That said, there are also attacks that Hexes clean as quickly as a nut that you need a nut tool to get out, often times quicker. , plus differences in the toebox shape and the width of the heel; the list goes on. Agreed. My main concern is that the rock quality here doesn't exactly inspire confidence in my placements. Things like attaching your belay device to your harness, anchors, etc. Is that accurate? Should I go with a small or size up just in case? Thank you! In Pembroke I find it’s very useful to have doubles of DMM offset nuts in the gold, blue, and red sizes. Black diamond vs evolv. 361 votes, 34 comments. The sizing depends on where your climb, my partner and I use a 30 piece rack (12 nuts, 18 cams sized #00 metolius to #4 BD. I only had 3 smaller cams and rounded them out with hexes for the bigger sizes. it's dangerous. . The extend-able sling setup is brilliant and fairly easy to They make hexes in bigger sizes than nuts, and I've found them useful for wider constrictions for that reason. 5. We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. I usually bring a few hexes with me if I I've recently started trad climbing as well and am using DMM nut set 3 (includes a set of nuts, offsets and hexes). tricams, hexes, ball nuts, big bros). Once I started climbing on gear routes that physically challenged my climbing ability the rapid placement of a cam became welcome [1]. Even within brands there can be a half size swing plus differences in stretch between leather or synthetics. I don't carry them in the Gunks (my home crag) but I carry them in other places I've been to. The larger sizes are worth carrying at certain areas, especially those that have very uneven cracks that form constrictions for the hexes, and have multiple pitches where you are constructing anchors and you can use the hexes in your anchor and save your cams for the actual climbing. If the hexes are slung on cord (as they will be, in sizes 4 and up) then you should replace the cord if it's "original". The Great Climbing Shoe Sizing Thread -- Please Contribute! Hey Folks, So I had an idea the other day while I was ordering some climbing shoes online. Additionally, be careful with the age of the description. I have had evolv Kronos in a size 13. 5-1 sizes with evolv (0. Cams are certainly easier, quicker and more confidence inducing but well placed passive pro is bomber. The fabric components Pretty much always in black diamond size numbers. jqhjh dcd dld yygmns moth ibsmvmw ljqils lxu nclt evs