Open hand vs full hand. Does it make a difference?. Full crimp vs half crimp vs completely open hand. Repeat the same lap with open fingers and observe the difference in your lap time. Aug 27, 2025 · A crimp in rock climbing is a type of climbing hold that will only fit your finger pads. Open hand puts less stress on the last joint in the finger, but takes much more force along the tendons and so it takes more training to get strong enough to do it. Full crimp is the strongest grip, but puts a lot of pressure on the A2, A3 and A4 pulleys, whereas the half crimp puts less pressure on A2 but still some on A4 and A3. Jan 31, 2022 · I know it’s usually more comfortable to open-hand, but if you’re serious about climbing as hard as you can, you absolutely have to be able to full crimp. Crimping ain’t easy. Open hand techniques should be practiced more in sparring, and us martial artists can help by encouraging our instructors to do so, and/or just implementing open hands if we're the teachers. What does the open hand icon mean on jewels? I have it affixed in one of my rings and it says it gives +24 damage but the damage is moved to the bottom part of the damage stat section. •full crimping for power? •open hand for resting? Feb 7, 2014 · I'm very confident that the open hand grip is less likely to rupture tendons than the "full crimp" (thumb on top). Sometimes on very small micro-edges, a full-crimp may provide better traction or on larger edges an open/drag grip may provide a more restful alternative, but generally speaking, the half crimp is the way to go. The position is defined extended pointer and pinky fingers while the middle two fingers rest in the half-crimped position. The extension of the pointer and the pinky allow for the relatively efficient use of the flexor muscles while half crimp position of the middle two fingers Why do you use open hand vs half crimp vs full crimp? I am interested in learning about which situations lend themselves to using one grip type over the other. There are three different crimp grips, the open hand grip, half crimp and full crimp grip. Do you know the difference between the crimp grip and the open grip? Are you confused about the difference between them? Be sure to check out the video to fi May 10, 2022 · The half-crimp can be used for the vast majority of edges, whether flat, sloping or in-cut, and it is also used when pinching. Closed fist strikes require a certain level of fidelity that, in the heat of the moment, can be very difficult to execute without significant risk of self-injury. On the left is an open hand crimp. When I first started rock climbing, everything seemed so intimidating. When to Use Half crimp vs. Jul 13, 2021 · So, when training on a hangboard, you’ll usually start by holding a static position, the “dead hang”, with different hand positions like full-crimp, half-crimp and open hand. I had to take a deep breath and Jun 3, 2025 · If a climber turns out not to be stronger in crimp than in open hand position - as they might have assumed - the open hand grip, which is easier on the pulleys, should be used wheneverpossible. Oct 15, 2021 · In the sport of rock climbing, the half crimp grip finds the happy medium between the power of the full crimp grip and the sustainability of an open hand grip. Open hand puts very little strain on the pulleys, but is a little tricker to master. Going to the gym by myself and being surrounded by incredible climbers left and right. Jan 19, 2021 · Four-fingers Open-hand The four-fingers open-hand position is an excellent compromise between efficiency and power. As discussed previously, full crimping requires strength in the lumbricals and interossei in the hand. Feb 2, 2025 · You're grasping the climbing grips with your entire hand in full crimp, making it a popular choice with beginners. Aug 12, 2016 · With regard to the open hand versus closed hand striking debate, open hands are a highly effective strategy when used correctly and in appropriate circumstances, having more positives and fewer negatives than closed fist strategies. Climbers are more concerned with grip technique than adjusting body weight properly. However, the assertion made in the video that open hand makes it "much easier to pull up" on small holds is absolute bull. Therefore, this study aimed to determine how accurate climbers could assess their maximal finger flexor strength in half-crimp and open hand positions. In my experience, full crimp is much stronger on the small holds, but comes with that greater risk of injury. Full crimp Oct 17, 2023 · I would posit that open hand techniques such as palm heel strikes and knife hand strikes are just as potent and much safer to execute than closed fist punches. As you see the joints are in a fairly natural position with nothing being overextended. This is also why full crimp injuries are more common than half crimp injuries. Sep 14, 2013 · To measure the effectiveness of open fingers versus closed fingers, swim a lap with your fingers closed and use the pace clock at the swimming pool to record your time or have a friend use a stopwatch to record your time. uygadht zzlz lvwn wopvcrx dzq ejspk tfjqy mrgyv bnrqyll rwgst