Sling width climbing reddit. 786 votes, 149 comments.

Sling width climbing reddit. Which do you prefer and for what uses? Really depends on the scenario. For trad, however, much lighter draws work better—featherweight biners on thin, supple slings to reduce bulk and weight and provide a more flexible attachment to nuts (think Black Diamond Oz). Prusik cord diameter Hi guys and girls, I was wondering what width of prusik cord you all use to make yourself safe when setting up top ropes and also for self abseil backup. Particularly, which configurations I had seen at the crag, what I use, and what the best options were for putting more together with my current stockpile of gear. Beal 6mmx15cm Dyneema slings). It would eat up the slings and make them less I’m thinking of reslinging my C4 cans with extendable dyneema slings like on WC Friends. . Will deploy these while aerial pruning around my properties, and recreational tree climbing. Girth hitched sling or PAS through harness, locker to bolt/chain/rats nest, pull rope from above, set rap, release anchor and go. 6 Experience: climbing for 5y, trad leading for one year ~35 pitches led total since my first lead last June. Comments? EDIT: Thanks for the feedback guys - I've learnt quite a bit from the links and We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. 12 votes, 51 comments. He carried a dozen shoulder slings and half a dozen loose biners for those stopper placements. It’s not quite as aesthetic but I’d like to try. BD Neutrinos) and using an open sling between the two (e. Bowline can be done with either an open loop (bowline on a bight) or a standing end. Nylon vs dynex sewn slings/runners. Also, now that the patent for keylock carabiners is up, there are a lot more fat sling solid gate keylock carabiners coming out at great prices. Slings, runners, cord, cordelettes and webbing are all climbing essentials. The different manufacturers will have published specifications for their equipment. Am I doing invisible damage to this sling? Am I doing it right? Should I use rope instead of slings? Would it be okay with just one sling after two carabiners? How would you built it in this scenario? Sorry for not having better pics of placements. We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. Cheers 305 votes, 96 comments. Double check everything, and weight any new system you set up before you This is for a solo project, I wont get into the details but im doing some urban climbing and just need some protection while climbing a tower. Use for 60cm Nylon sling For what cases do you specifically use nylons slings? Someone gifted a couple of nylon 60 cm slings but I never take them with me because I find dyneema more convenient. trueI am a big fan of Mammut. 3 to 0. My friend always clips a quickdraw to the sling regardless of the route. sling or closed cordlette). Its intended use is as a replacement for a commonly used length of cordelette that is tied in a loop and used to build anchors with. trueBecause everybody always throws in the name you would expect, here's something else: rock pillars/ocun (czech republic): really good shoes (eg. I find this makes it super simple to extend (and by the right amount) even with just a single free hand. Traditional climbing: use at your own risk. There is a staple and rings at one section between climbs "Wonder Wall - Right" and Peak Performance" at the north end. Backpack or sling bag? I've been climbing with backpacks over the years and not had much problem while leading but recently my bag was a big issue. Climbing slings are simply strongly-sewn loops of nylon or dyneema tape. I've been reading about shock load forces, and even from short heights it can create a a lot of impact force and was a bit worried my 4mm is a bit too narrow Aug 31, 2020 · We field tested 10 of the best climbing slings and runners in 2025 to see which nylon and dyneema offerings are worth your money. What is the ideal sling length? The length of the sling determines what you can use it for when climbing. And I gotta say, I like the Petzl Connect Adjust much more. I was freaked out after watching the video, Break Nylon & Dyneema Slings, and I was wondering if you guys could provide me your thoughts about the safety of our Dynex runner. However, I don't see anything really wrong with this setup. This is my shopping cart with my reasoning beside it. Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. Hi Climbit! I'm wondering if we're able to create our own quickdraws by getting two wiregates (e. Dedicated to increasing all our knowledge about how to better improve at our sport. If using 2 slings I prefer to use them like 2 long quick draws. So your calculations shoud go like this : 2* (rating oft the sling)*0. DIY reslinging cams? Heyo! I've got some older cams I'd like reslung, is there any reason not to just cut the existing sling and tie on some new webbing with a water knot? I'm only asking because the webbing I have one and is a bit wider then the original sling, so it doesn't fit as nicely. Taking it slow, learning a lot. The home of Climbing on reddit. Buying my first sling I've never bought a sling before and I wanted some expert input on the matter. You can either cut up your cordelette, cut up one of your nice expensive Dyneema slings or take my sage advice about carrying at least one tied runner. Rope will obviously go through the quick draws at the bottom. But mostly just a long sling girth-hitched to my harness with a locker on the other end. Is it as safe to weight any knotted segment as it is the ends? Sep 1, 2023 · Need to purchase the best climbing slings and runners for your trad climbing adventures? Our expert advice will help, as we've purchased and tested over 30 different slings in the past decade. The second bolt is your backup if the first fails. So the easiest, and I think, safest way to resling is just use a basket hitch with a sewn sling. Please be also advised, that the knot in the sling will reduce the holding power of the sling. Now you’re completely on top of each other. This review includes 12 of the best and most popular choices available today, which can be used for extending protection to reduce rope drag, building and equalizing anchors, and even as threads or slung What size slings and how many each do you like having set aside for trad anchors? Or do you prefer cordelette? And why. Some of my cams need a resling before next season but some are OK for a few years. 1 is ok, 2 is super good, 3 is allso super good. Depends where you're climbing, are you anchoring using natural features or gear, have you considered static rope, are you leading the routes first or are the tops of the cliffs accessible by foot, etc. Mar 3, 2025 · The “quad” offers a strong, fast, redundant, simple anchor when distributing forces between pieces is a high priority. What are your experiences and opinions? 15 votes, 47 comments. " Is this a good rule? I have been using a dyneema sling as a third hand backup to go hands free while rapping/cleaning routes. As far as brands go, I absolutely recommend the mammut dyneema slings. I've been bouldering at a gym for two years and recently started sport climbing, too. Mar 2, 2016 · To find the best sling width, make a choice with the following factors: intended use, material type, handling / dexterity, price, weight and mental comfort -- all explained in this post. Rope is dynamic but a factor two on a short length is still going to be uncomfortable. This is by no means an exhaustive analysis as I have a limited amount of gear on hand, but Slings would be nice for a bomber tree, bolt anchors, or other close together set ups and you will undoubtedly have them already The rope should be fine unless you are climbing the full length of the rope and don't have an extra length to make the anchor. Question about slings for anchors I recently bought a lot of gear to start climbing outdoors with a few friends, and I went to my local gym to get their opinion on the quality of my gear and how I use it. rebel, ozone, top gun) and slings at fair prices, haven't tried out their biners and crashpads yet edelrid (germany): great ropes and quickdraws chillaz (austria): cool clothes for climbing and bouldering of course bd, petzl 46 votes, 26 comments. Was gonna use 2 slings to maintain contact as I climb, sort of leap frogging them, idk what thats called. I find having something extra only for that purpose is unnecessary and just extra bulk. The 16 mm nylon sling will work as a friction hitch, but has a higher risk of being damaged and therefore losing function as a sling. When I learned to make alpine draws, I generally carry 4 alpine draws and 8 shoulder slings. Climbing gear, for instance, needs to adhere to specific strength standards to ensure user safety. If you can buy webbing by the foot to make cheaper slings etc, why do people buy slings? Should you buy nylon or dyneema climbing slings? Dyneema slings are lighter, nylon climbing slings are more durable. Climbing slings advice? I’ve always just used rope. Stuff like prusiks, gloves, belay plate and a nanotrax+tiblock for rescue. 3M subscribers in the climbing community. Strength: Different applications require different strength ratings. On the back loops I keep 6-8 alpine draws (single length) and then 2-3 double lengths over my shoulder with a biner clipped on them. And most importantly, mark the sling on how many times you have done this. Adjama Is my go to as well. Mammut has made a new sling that's many times stronger and more abrasion-proof by making it out of twisted Dyneema wrapped in a sheath, with no connection seam Since you're asking about trad climbing, at some point in your career you're going to have to untie and thread your sling or use it for rap tat. I am in the process of renewing pretty much all nylon, webbing and sling from my rack. Standing around for 10min trying to untie a frozen, weighted dyneema sling is bad style. I climb mostly in Utah in rock canyon and Ibex with the occasional moab trip. 786 votes, 149 comments. Setting up anchors Slings are My climbing partner and I have been climbing outdoors for a few months and we use two 18mm Metolius nylon slings or a 10mm Black Diamond Dynex runner to set our tope rope. Their climbing ropes are some of the best. But it's like $15 (extra vs sling) you'll live to tell the tale. What type of climbing will you be doing? For me, I go with a pre-built 120cm sling quad anchor for anything bolted, 120cm sling for building trad anchors, and a 20’ cordalette for anywhere I need to extend an anchor. I personally dont like using sport draws for trad climbing so I carry 10 regular shoulder length slings and 2 double length slings on longer stuff, all racked with 2 carabiners on my harness. 12 votes, 48 comments. Extendable draw sling width? Hey all, Looking at purchasing slings to make my own alpine/extendable draws. Setting up a secure top rope anchor is vital. How about racking nuts pre-strung on alpine draws? It would avoid the hassle of setting up a draw for every placement, the fumbling around with and possibly dropping the leftover group of nuts, and would make re-racking a lot simpler. A friend also recommended an autoblock for added safety which seems UNSAFE yikes, anchored to a small shrub and a dug up root. Is it alright to use a knotted sling as a personal anchor system? I know daisy chains are discouraged for the obvious reasons, but is a knotted sling relatively bulletproof? I assume so, but having been surprised by counterintuitive safety hazards I figured it best to ask. In Korea where sport climbing is plentiful so stocking up on my first serious gear buy. As I am new to this, just seeking advice in regards to which width is better suited for draws. If you're climbing with a gear sling, be sure these slings are on top of the gear sling and that they hang under the opposite arm of the gear sling. Looking to add a sling to assemble a quad anchor for top rope climbing where it would be best to have extension over the (relatively rounded) edge. You should clip your PAS to both bolts if possible. If you're on a budget, maybe the long knotted sling would have been more cost effective but both do the job, and there some real conveniences to the PAS. 5 = breaking force oft the system //the 0. We got you covered in this comprehensive guide to slings. So you need to know exactly what length fits your requirements. For multi-pitch trad cordalettes, 7mm cord is pretty standard (17-22ft depending on preference). If that is not an option for whatever reason then I use whatever slings I have available on my harness. Nitpicking, opposed biners are a good idea. I've also tried the typical chain-link style PAS things (like Metolius). And that 16mm is a good width? The only issue I’m not sure on is the I tend to use slings or cord when leading in blocks and use the rope when swinging leads. The purpose of the sling is to be kind of all around. I own Hardshell, softshell jacket and pants, mid Anchor question-single sling with a figure 8, or single sling with overhand knots and a sliding X. If you don't feel safe clipping in with one PAS, back it up with a sling girth hitched to your tie in point with a locker on the other end. More than 2-5 individual loops (depending on sling width) and you should resling it, at least get a DIY sling in there. What are common sling lengths folks find useful for tree work? I have a bunch of webbing and I’d like to make some beer-knotted slings. Wild Country seems to be marketing that sling as "the Cordelette" as in a name for that product. That’s why every complete set of climbing equipment includes a wide variety of slings in various lengths and materials. I always clove in with the rope while climbing, but I’ll use a sling or a PAS as a personal anchor while rappelling. Learn how to choose the type you need. By far the biggest way to drop weight without sacrificing safety is to place (and therefore carry) more stoppers. g. You’ll also probably hear different opinions (including some along the lines of “the companies just want You are not allowed to sling trees at Otter Cliff. For sure will do. Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Typically sling lengths can measure between 60 to 180 cm. This is typically what I bring on most multi pitch climbs and how I’d rack it to maximize space for pro + draws, the extra carabiners shown (not attached) are situationally I've recently wanted to get a gear sling, both for racking and for climbing certain offwidths and chimneys. The chain is attached by two bolts/anchor points in the rock at both ends of it. I’ve been told nylon over dyneema. Narrower webbing might be suitable for lightweight applications. There are many ways to set up a top … The sewn sling is attached to each nut via a strop bend, and the sling equalized via a flat overhand at it's lowest point, and the quick link connected over the knot and between each of the two legs on each side of the knot for redundancy. Is longer better, more versatile? What lengths and how many slings do you carry on your saddle? comments sorted by Best Top New Controversial Q&A Add a Comment You will be laughed at relentlessly if you show up at a crag with two PAS's. You could do this with a piece of webbing by tying it together to make a loop, but not with the rappel rings. The retailer I buy off is only offering either 8mm or 11mm in width. Reddit's rock climbing training community. I like that they make a lot of their gear for Mountaineering/climbing, so many (most) items have helmet compatible hoods and two way zip. Do friction hitches damage slings? VDiff climbing says: " Don’t use a sling for anything except a prusik after using it once as a prusik. Small cord will bite better and has a sheath to wear through before the core. Sure, it's not as lightweight as a sling, but the fact that it's instantly and infinitely Reddit's rock climbing training community. Keep slack out of your static anchors. This technique reduces the number of carabiners you carry, thereby reducing weight. What would be a first good sling and why? I'm looking at a 10mm thick 60/100cm long My favorite sling for multipitch trad anchors is the rope I am climbing on. 5 can vary from 0. It’s apples and oranges. This means that it took at least 70 climbing days for the slings to decrease in strength by 16%. Since your quickdraw will all be a standard length, using different lengths of runners to create a variety of options for draw lengths to use together. This is basically a "totally fine or retarded?" question. Has anyone tried using a sling-style bag? Any additional thoughts/suggestions? There's a certain simplicity to that and I have come to like it. 12mm dyneema does sound like a good call (and I've made a note for later) Cheers! Been trad climbing with some buddies for a while now and ready to commit and buy my own rack. 20K subscribers in the tradclimbing community. An anchor refers to the whole system — the anchor points, the protection gear, runners, carabiners and climbing rope. Depends on your local climbing area. When a climber falls, having a solid top rope anchor is literally a matter of life and death. Disadvantages: more potential for a tangly mess. Yours works just fine though and may well be more efficient if you can get the lenghts right. Share Add a Comment Sort by: Best Open comment sort options Top New Controversial Old Q&A HunchoBandoOG • I originally bought a Metolius PAS and am thinking of switching over just to a sling as well. If you want a full set of light trad/alpine sling- and quickdraws for cheap I warmly recommend looking for sales of rack packs of light biners (CAMP NANO, Edelrid 19G etc), 60cm dyneema slings and 17cm Petzl Ange S/L or BD OZ quickdraws. Oct 31, 2016 · I've been using various things for a personal anchor while sport climbing. I'm collecting all the gear I need for it but I'm confused on what I need to buy for cleaning routes. 8mm x 60m Non-Dry Rope Webbing 4 x 18cm nylon sling - Runners 2 x 17cm dogbone-style quickdraw sling - Recommended by Climbit 2 x 25cm dogbone-style Most instructional videos seem to use slings, however as I read more into it this can apparently be a death trap, as a static material sling (which most are) can break with fall factor and weight of not that much. What are your thoughts on using this as an anchor for top roping? Is it safe? The two carabiners at the top will be locked to a thick steel chain. I think I’d rather use a sling round a tree branch than a piece of rope for example. It is nice to have a fatter sling for 2-screw anchors (usually a nylon-dyneema blend so it's not too fat) because it's easier to untie when you are moving on from a multipitch belay. They had a problem with the cordelette I got to set up an anchors. The sling is a mammut magic sling 120cm (dyneema centre with abrasion resistant nylon sheath). Feedback much appreciated: Rope 9. Cordelette or accessory cord is a skinny rope from about 5mm to 9mm (bigger is generally stronger, smaller is not suitable for climbing). Keeps the front 4 loops clear for cams/nuts and slings while I climb. So you are building up your rack and looking for some soft slings to connect all those shiny new carabiners together. I generally We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. Generally recommended to replace soft goods (nylon/dyneema cord, slings, etc. And yes we are scared of falling. Sierra granite eats them up. I'd say it's a fine purchase, OP, particularly for sport climbing. but, I can see the appeal for using a sling. it's dangerous. I want to be able to use it for read in the future but also use it for tying off and cleaning lead routes. There are very few US manufactured carabiners (SMC, most Omega Pacific, Black Diamond) and the prices and quality don't actually change significantly. I understand this makes the draw slightly "shiftier". Apr 25, 2012 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. 6 depending in the knot //the 2 comes from the fact that you have 2 strings when knoting cord together Tldr: slings are fucking cheap, and when in doubt buy new Title. I spend some time considering 6mm or 7mm for anchor cordelette (I selected the ticker). of tubular 1" webbing and cut it into lengths to make you own double length, or even larger, tied slings. My personal preference would be to sling shorter slings around your pieces, clip a carabiner and then do a more conventional fixed point or sliding x anchor. I have many items from Arc’teryx and Norrøna too, so I feel the quality is on that level and sometimes better. There are good blocks to sling around "Overhanging Corner" at the south end. Consider the following factors: Popular Uses for Climbing Slings Draws and extending quick-draws Slings and runners generally come in single and double sizes, with the single length being at least 2-3 times longer than the average quick draw. Girth hitching a sling to your belay loop is common practice everywhere else, and perfectly safe as long as you don't leave one permanently tied at the same spot on an obviously completely worn out harness. For alpine I'll sometimes take a 6mm one but it is substantially weaker. Not so much in the center section or by the sea stack - you'll I was taught by an old school yosemite big Waller. Some areas may have bolted anchors that are easily accessible, in which case you'll just need slings and some more biners. In terms of rope efficiency, it can be done with fairly short slings. Cordolette is used when bolts are farther apart or away from the edge or when I climb on gear. However, since I have never owned one, I do not have any experience with the pros and cons of multi loop and not multi loop. Hollowblock will bite even better and last even longer. Been reading FOTH and John Long to figure out what I need to get. But where to start? How to decide length, width, and material? And what is Dyneema anyway? Don’t worry. is that a standard climbing knot on the black sling? I've added my own SAFE/UNSAFE/MAYBE classifications to each setup. I use shoulder length slings (red in mammut, yellow in petzl/everyone else) and store a couple on my harness in alpine draw style and store a couple over my shoulder already extended. Any benefit from doing two slings, one to each anchor, for redundancy? I’m sure it’s overkill, but figured I’d ask. Girth hitch only allows you to use a closed loop (e. This article explains how to use slings for protection, how to rack them and more. The resultant anchor point is non-redundant. 142 votes, 14 comments. for cams, draws, and anything else) after 7-10 years maximum, regardless of wear and tear (and of course earlier if damaged). The 5th loop holds all of my nonsense gear that I carry for non climbing/emergencies. Harness isn't bulky but holds a lot of gear and is padded enough to be comfortable on multi pitch. If I’m climbing a route that doesn’t really wander, I’ll clip directly into the racking carabiner on the cam’s sling. Primary Climbing Area: Northeast USA, The Gunks Current Lead Range: up to 5. I only carry webbing while climbing for use in bail anchors, but for canyoneering where it is super common I I was wondering if most of us do it? I am from Canada and there's not really a place to have your gear reslung. For top roping, you can buy about 40 ft. Very overwhelmed on where to start. 4M subscribers in the climbing community. Come to think of it why is so much climbing gear made of static material? Alot of falling happens in climbing : / Dyneema hardly absorbs water, so it's great for winter climbing extendable runners, draws, everything. It requires more rope than a girth hitch, but can be done with a climbing rope which I usually rack my nuts at the front of my front gear loops and cams running smallest to largest at the back (also front loops). Once I have a couple C4s sourced to donate for testing I'll be chatting with Mtn Tools about sling width and such. 1. For other climbs on Otter Cliff, you will have to sling blocks or build gear anchors. Any suggestions on what a good “starter pack” would look like as far different cam/nut sizes? and then I can experiment and add to it based on need from there. For bolted stations it's more convenient to just use a double-length sling (either premade or your own webbing one). If I need to extend or the route wanders, I clip an alpine draw into the cam’s sling (so the racking biner is just chilling next to it). Accessory cord is The sling is a single pointof failure on a sliding x plus if one bolt breaks there will be significant extension. 6 is a good start if you supplement with sport draws for long pitches. Just curious. Someone said I need slings (to hold my weight on the anchors instead of the rope) but I'm not sure what I should purchase for that. The two For threading through an anchor I usually use 2 quickdraws, or one girth-hitched long sling and a quickdraw. Can I get away with 8mm width on a Dyneema sling? Jan 29, 2022 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. I was cleaning up my climbing gear today after an unfortunate incident during a muddy approach, and I started thinking about alpine draws. Slings are static so a factor two is going to be disastrous. Width: Wider webbing generally distributes load better and is stronger, but it can also be bulkier and heavier. I got this cordelette, which is only 8mm wide. Even if that relationship is linear (doubtful), that means you have minimum 210 climbing days before approaching 50% strength, based on exposure. However, it can feel a bit more cluttered when you have a rack of gear and a bunch of slings hanging around your Mar 13, 2024 · For sport climbing, you want full-size, wear-resistant biners on stiff, beefy slings (think Petzl Express or Trango Smooth draw). mbixdlc hqtg nga lqyns pnjvx ldu mgfy xezo fjlik dfzp