Ape index climbers reddit. I did the 12 week boulder plan.
Ape index climbers reddit. This movie is perhaps my favorite climbing movie. Through two decades of dangling on the rope, searching for intermediates on my way to the anchors, I’ve thrown tantrums and even temporarily quit climbing because of reachy moves that thwarted my every effort. im 4'10, with a 5'2 wingspan (aka a +4 ape index), so those extra couple inches really matter! now im more likely to try that dyno, bc i may be way shorter than avg but my arms arent actually much shorter than my partners are! no more excuse 馃槄 that said, if my arms had been shorter than avg id really be sweating lol. Dai Koyamda is 165cm/5'5". i guess im heavier. Would be interesting to see. I am surrounded by taller climbers who can do things in ways that I cannot. From what I can tell, Ondra isn't obsessed with training or being stronger, he's obsessed with rock climbing. I am pretty happy with my climbing progress but I definitely complain occasionally about not reaching things. I hope you find what you search for but it really won't tell you anything about climbing. It is simply a measure that may or may not have some significance in some sports. He struggles with climbs where the best feet are too close to his hands, and feels Get good at being flexible and doing dynamic movements! I don't have a negative ape index but I'm about 5 to 5ft1 as well, i think (155cm to be exact, haha). Ape index 1. As a result, progress isn't as simple for her, and this can cause her a lot of frustration. Edit: Forgot the link facepalm Hey y'all so I'm a pretty short climber and have a negative ape index (5'5,-2). As the title says, my partner is rather short, and her ape index doesn't help. It's a no nonsense, with little story/dialogue, and all climbs are shown with a single continuous shot. Specifically the movements and intricacies of specific routes and climbs. I started climbing on the Moonboard and some weaknesses quickly revealed itself. May 9, 2025 路 To understand the ape index’s role in climbing, we first need a solid grasp of what it is. I'm male, 157 cm (5'2), 53 kg (117 lbs). I've been climbing for 4 years now and use to just go into the gym to project and saw consistent results. The most of the studies on the subject have shown that there aren’t many climbers who have benefits because of their negative ape indices. A lot I go to the Phoenix Rock Gym in Tempe almost every weekend, this weekend I am going to be trying out Ape Index. I just completed my first cycle of training with lattice. Does anybody know why Magnus has bigger muscles compared to your average pro climber? 258 votes, 41 comments. Everyone talks about ape index, but is leg length relative to height important when climbing? I never noticed leg length at all until talking to some people and we realized that we have drastically different leg lengths - like a 6 inch range when we're within an inch of one another in height. What's your Technique Index? What's your learning mine really improved my confidence on reachy moves. 4M subscribers in the climbing community. At least at an advanced/pro level that is true, for a beginner/intermediate ape index is always good for climbing There are some outliers like Jan Hojer (187 with +10cm) but the worlds best are rather more like Adam Ondra who even has a NEGATIVE ape index of -1cm Reddit's rock climbing training community. 75K subscribers in the climbergirls community. That said one could be pickier and ask for ape index, time spent climbing, expertise in bouldering, sport, speed and more. Look up your favorite basketball players, football players, UFC fighters, etc and search their height vs On the contrary, bouldering gyms tend to be set by very strong climbers, and very strong climbers tend to be on the taller side. As a fellow tall climber (6’3” with a +3 ape index), it’s just gonna be something you learn to beta break or you just won’t be able to do it sometimes tbh. Was 5’7 with a 6’ 5 wingspan last year Reply reply More replies ishabowa • Try out fight sports or rock climbing Reply reply ActivityHoliday • Maybe in the future, if swimming doesn’t work out Reply reply ishabowa • Reply reply ActivityHoliday • Reply reply ishabowa • Yeah you’d be great at armwrestling then Reply reply The best climbers have always been shorter than the average. Indoor bouldering/leading 2. May 30, 2023 路 Related: Your Ape Index and 10 Other Really Super Important Measurements Another interesting finding revealed by Randall and Torr is that shorter climbers need the strongest fingers for the grade, with every reduction of 10 centimeters in height correlating to the climber needing to be 2. It's a dedicated platform for climbers to find and follow others who match their own height and ape index. Not huge, but 6' is a pretty average height for great climbers. I’d like to watch their technique because im sure it’s different than the shorter/average women and any of the men. Jul 14, 2023 路 Rock climbers call their arm span-to-height ratio their ape index. From head to toe I’m pretty sure he’s around 5’7 give or take a few inches. Learn to be comfortable in twisting your body a bit more than other people and get strong fingers! The good thing about being small is that we also have smaller fingers so what is a foothold for others can easily be a tiny crimp for us to Apr 25, 2024 路 Most climbers know their ape index, but do you know how to calculate your sloth index? And what about your snake index? When I started back climbing after several years off I measured my arm span and it was 5'9. Totally agree!! My climbing partner is my husband, and he is 6’3” and not a wire-y build. The Slovenian athlete is widely regarded as the greatest competition climber of all time. Anyway, I'm sure there are statisticians or math-savvy climbers here who can make much more of it than we did. 11s (a, c, d) pretty easily, yet there are still so many . I'm only 5'6 so every inch is a big gain for me. The respondents were 90% male (reddit, woo!), and the single best climber in the smaller female sample also had the lowest ape index (-5 ape index, V8 climber). But on the other end, I’ve also watched taller and far better climbers of average height struggle with moves that honestly to me seem kinda impossible if We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. Yes, having a positive/bigger wingspan does help in climbing most of the times. 11 votes, 20 comments. It's an hour of him basically crushing everything. Is this unheard of? Has anyone else noticed a big increase in your ape index after climbing a while? We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. See here: Wiki Link to Ape Index A symmetrical person will have nearly the same length height and reach, but having a reach much longer than your height is one of the primary characteristics of elite athletes. Last time I was at the gym, I got some some . 5yrs, mixed consistency, started hangboarding a month ago. It doesn't look as cool and I… My first V3! Trying to learn how to do more dynamic movements because I know my short body, long torso, and negative ape index will need it. EDIT: Whoa, didn't read Hey! (Relatively) New climber here! I know pro women tend to be on the shorter-average end of height, but I’m 6 feet tall and can’t really find info on any other tall girl climbers. My partner is around your height but also has -5cm ape index. 10d/5. As someone who is 6'2" with a +2 ape index, its really hard for me to not static most dynos. Been climbing about 2. : r/climbergirls Scan this QR code to download the app now TOPICS Gaming Sports Business Crypto Television Celebrity POPULAR POSTS Go to climbergirls r/climbergirls r/climbergirls A sub for women and non-binary climbers and their allies The problem with all the discussions of height and ape index are that the "oh I can't reach that" is such an obvious problem to novice climbers, so they inevitably jump to the conclusion of "if only I was a little bit taller" without considering all the invisible repercussions. 5 years at around V5/V6 and AUS 21 (5. However, if you were part of Jan 9, 2015 路 Rock climber? Swimmer? Normal person who is curious about your body proportions? Find out your ape index. So, there's not much we can do in terms of route setting to produce more tall elite climbers. 111 votes, 31 comments. which is obvious. He climbing style is incredible to watch. Somebody can correct me if I’m wrong but I’m like 85% Louis isn’t super tall. These were my The reason for this isn't political correctness; the reason is that if you are sitting at a relatively healthy BMI and you want to know how to climb V9, then you should get better at climbing. And world-champion competition climber Sean McColl is just 5’ 6½” tall. Still in her mid-20s, she has rewritten record books with multiple World Championship titles, Worl Reply beanis-man- • Additional comment actions legs are aid Reply PoorLittleLamb • Additional comment actions As a Gumby with a -2 APE due to stork legs I can confirm it is only aid for feet first beta Reply lonely_dodo • fa: the pink one in the corner • Additional comment actions pfft that's 1 inch in my operating room Reply ppablo787 • Additional comment actions Mani the Monkey showing a great comparison of techniques between a climber with a +10 ape index and one with a +1 ape index. I’ve even accused tall people of “cheating” as they skipped holds Reddit's rock climbing training community. 3M subscribers in the climbing community. Mar 14, 2023 路 Tl;dr: This analysis shows that weight, gender, height, and ape index do not play a significant role in a person’s maximum sport climbing grade or bouldering grade. I climb 3-4 times a week during school and looking for a new gym to call home in the phoenix area. He climbs like 10 boulders 8B and up or something like that, and makes them all look like piss. At 6'2 I have a 6'8 wingspan so it would be +6. 395K subscribers in the bouldering community. There are climbers with negative ape like Ondra and some with +10 cm like Jan Hojer. This does not mean that having short wingspan makes you a bad climber. That one person reversed the correlation for women. Given that my weight isn't where I'd like it, attempting a dyno often results in me falling off as I have too much weight under me to hold my grip. System Specs: 5'10, 145 lbs, +1 inch ape index. I’m a The funny thing about "lanky Ondra" is that -3 ape index. I try to listen as best I can Posted by u/Vpk-75 - 43 votes and 3 comments Sometimes people try to be inclusive and positive but it backfires when it goes against reality, as it unvalidates the feelings of those who has that disadvantages. The only thing is his ape index is +5 and he’s absurdly strong. 5 percent stronger. Here’s some insight from a newcomer to the gym, “Amazing experience! We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. Start by saying I’m 5’2, negative ape index. Funny thing is, Daniel Woods and Jimmy Webb also used a "tall beta" since they have a 183 and 185 cm ape index, making it easier for them compared to Nalle Hukkataival who was the first to work on the line but did the 3rd repetition. 103 votes, 12 comments. We are probably equal in skill, but I often have a lot easier time finding beta and access to holds. 10as that feel almost impossible (skill issue, ik they’re not impossible impossible). We were able to hunt some down (Lynn Hill, Kai Lightner, Tommy Caldwell, etc) on the interwebs but legitimately can’t find Alex Honnold’s so he’s noticeably absent on our wall. It's known as an "ape index". I think this data only confirms that climbing morphs are variable in elite athletes but high strength-weight ratio is significant when competing against the best. I've always liked this video for showing all the competitors stacked up against each other in terms of height, weight and ape index. In both, men's and women's categories, the best boulderers are taller than the best lead climbers. Apr 25, 2024 路 Most climbers know their ape index, but do you know how to calculate your sloth index? And what about your snake index? Apr 25, 2024 路 Most climbers know their ape index, but do you know how to calculate your sloth index? And what about your snake index? The respondents were 90% male (reddit, woo!), and the single best climber in the smaller female sample also had the lowest ape index (-5 ape index, V8 climber). But does it matter? Click to find out. Not overweight at all, but his body simply is not slender, even when he was seriously into cycling before he started climbing. For example, swimmers, fighters (boxing/MMA), rock climbers, powerlifters (in the deadlift), and basketball players benefit from long arms (+ to their ape indexes). Learn why and how it affects climbing performance. Setting is typically such that the average male has the biggest advantage IMO (usually around 5’9”-5’11” in the US), it can be easier or harder depending on the problem the further you are above or below that height. I'm wondering if anyone else here has a poor ape index, and if you have any tips for overcoming that as a beginner? Jul 9, 2021 路 Your Ape Index plays a crucial part in your ultimate climbing performance… or doesn’t it? The answer to that question is found below in this ultra-informative article! Read on and decide for yourself if you’re going to let your negative Ape Index get you down. for women <160cm do they have negative/neutral ape index or +10cm? Jul 9, 2021 路 How to measure your ape index and how important is it? Is it the most important factor of your climbing performance? This and more answered! Hold on, you're a climbing coach, presumably have seen a lot of athlete data and are well versed in various training methods, and you're asking us what the low hanging fruit is? Can I say as a relatively new tall climber, I feel as though shorter climbers generally get a better experience while bouldering. at my height 1. Mar 20, 2017 路 Curious how your ape index and other factors stack up against the crushers that have sent Southern Smoke in the Red River Gorge? A 2001 study comparing teenage male and female competition climbers noted that performance differences between the genders could be explained by several factors, one of which was the lower ape index found in the female competition climbers. 13 or +10" I am a terrible climber, but can sometimes get away with "hard" moves that are difficult only because of reach. In March/April I started to notice a plateau and knew I needed to make a change in what I was doing. I guess the main reason is the fact that the heavier you are the harder will be to pull you up of a crimp or any hold in general, then I wonder about how height and arm span affect in the peak performance What would be more interesting is ape index vs max grade. Penguin, Orang-Utan or Average Joe - which one are you? Calculate your ape index and discover where your strengths and weaknesses in climbing lie. V1 check! V2 loading馃槑 馃搷Ape Index Climbing Gym in Peoria, AZ comments sorted by Best Top New Controversial Q&A Add a Comment We put one together and it was really hard to find stats on ape indexes of pro climbers. I did the 12 week boulder plan. 11 votes, 13 comments. 1. As a climber with long arms (+12cm/5inches ape index) and legs, I’ve just finished a long term project which was completely my anti-style: a wide compression boulder revolving around a tight and uncomfortable heel hook. Granted scrunched up moves are more challenging for taller people so there is advantages and disadvantages. Dedicated to increasing all our knowledge about how to better improve at our sport. How to Calculate Your Ape Index There are two ways to calculate your ape index: divide your wingspan by your height or subtract your height from your wingspan. May 31, 2022 路 Pro climber Chelsea Rude, who’s onsighted up to 5. This was my first taste of structured training and properly working on my weakness. . We are no different, and thus, I and my friend are conducting an extensive study (over a large subset of competition climbers) to identify which factors specifically contribute to enhanced climbing performance in competitive climbing It definitely can be worked around I’m not saying a negative index makes climbing impossible. e. 14!) Feb 2, 2024 路 Ape Index Rock Climbing is loved and supported by a very large number of members in the climbing community, from Reddit to Facebook. ) See full list on climbing. Having a + to your ape index is not indicative of stunted growth. Jul 16, 2025 路 The ape index climbing is a way climbers measure their wingspan relatively to their body. Even guys like Alex Megos that don't seem short are well below the average height of their From time to time, we all wonder about the impact of height, weight, or arm span on our climbing performance. Ape index for those who don't know is your height minus your wingspan. That's normal, we all have different bodies, skills, strengths, weaknesses Ape Index is a completely accidental number; You could focus on anything else, really. 11a depending on which conversion chart you use). Jul 25, 2024 路 Height 5′ 10″ Age 46 Ape Index +0 in, +0cm Nationality American Tommy Caldwell is one of the most accomplished and inspiring rock climbers in history. Cordless and proud. A big highlight of the women’s final was seeing Brooke use her (lack of) height to slightly beta-break and accommodate being short. There's a famous photo of my gym's routesetters all lined up at a photo shoot and all 7 of them are literally the exact same height. How I feel as a 5'9" climber with a negative ape-index and climbing with people 6 feet or taller. Height 5′ 5″ Age 26 Ape Index Unknown Nationality Slovenian Janja Garnbret has dominated the world of sport climbing like no other. that little woman is like a gecko! Wome of the problems are definitely a lot more difficult for her being so short. Known for redefining the Climbing time in months is a bit weird. Looking even at macro scale things, or ape-index, can even be misleading-- they may be drowned out by all the other variables working in very complex ways (ever seen a complex pendulum acting under chaotic regimes? 90 votes, 49 comments. The home of Climbing on reddit. If someone’s only been climbing a number of months rather than years, ape index is incredibly unlikely to be the reason for their grade limit. As a 4'11" climber with a negative ape index and a heavier body weight, I just want to let you know that I hear you! It really is hard sometimes and there's no getting around that. All the strong climbers I know have large wingspans. APE index doesn't correlate well at all with climbing performance and it doesn't predict climbing performance in novice climbers. Two climbers that are of “average” height based on statistics, one is 5’4”, the other is 5’10”, could have drastically different experience on a climb, where a reach that the 5’10” climber can do without thinking, might be very hard for the 5’4” climber. If we climb the same route and there is a move I can reach easy they need to get their leg high, smear the wall, push the hip towards the high foot and then lock the arm and finally reach for the hold. Just wanted to express my admiration, shes only 5ft! Found some Hi all, I'm a short climber, and I'd like to have a discussion about mentality. Just watching the ISFC world championships. I'm by no means tall (5'6") but most of the time it isn't a limiting factor while climbing. (size 46 feet, too. Being small has a lot of advantages in climbing (light, keeping the body close to the wall) and it's no coincidence that the vast majority of pro climbers (male and female) are below average height - with some exceptions of course, such as Adam Ondra. Might take a bit tho, only a month into 17, still 5’8. For instance routes usually have been set up with an average height in mind. The best male climbers are on average 4 cm shorter than their non-climbing peers and female climbers around 1 cm shorter. Climbing is a long term game and dropping weight for the sake of sending a grade harder doesn't make you better at climbing. (Example photo) Been reading through many threads saying muscle exertion is related to the cross-sectional area of the muscle. I find that foot hand matching/spanny powerful moves are terribly difficult for me compared to when I am climbing with my friends who are a little taller with positive or neutral ape indexes. From what I can tell, this isn’t necessarily the case at every comp - it depends on the setters and how they choose to approach setting for height-diverse athletes. And yes we are scared of falling. Ironically enough I don’t think Louis Parkinson (the climber in the gif) is actually that tall. That'd be a logic fallacy. The woman with the negative Ape Index? It looks more like a positive Torso Factor (TM). i generally lank my way up harder climbs. Which gym would you recommend? I visited Ape index and wasn't too impressed but I have not checked out AZ on the rocks. So in this case we call the 5’4” climber - the short climber. After climbing for almost a year and a half I've measured again and my span is 5'10. im 6'2 with a +4" ape index. com Jul 14, 2023 路 Rock climbers call their arm span-to-height ratio their ape index. A sub for women and non-binary climbers and their allies The only unique advantage to negative ape index climbers would be some weird mantles maybe? Of course a negative ape index isn’t what holds most people back but it definitely doesn’t seem useful. Imo they had to become more complete climber quicker. Phoenix Climbers of Reddit: Az on the Rocks, or Ape Index? I'm in the process of moving to phoenix. The man has an impressive ape index, but I swear his center of gravity is at his sternum. [6] I noticed the men’s setting felt more height dependent than the women’s this time. May 30, 2023 路 Clocking in at 5’0” with a plus-2” ape index, I learned early on that the rock doesn’t offer equality. Dec 14, 2021 路 There are professional climbers that have neutral ape index and also climbers that have very positive measurements. 13c and repointed much harder, seems to do just fine with her -2” ape index. Her torso is just long compared to her legs and arms, giving her more reach than a person with a neutral Torso Factor (TM). This isn't about finding climbing partners; it's about discovering what climbers with your body dimensions are achieving in bouldering, board climbing, sport climbing, and trad climbing. This involves its definition, how it originated, the methods for its calculation, and distinguishing it from things with similar names. hangboarding has a similar influence on prediction to climbing frequency and it is significant influence arm span/ape index does not really matter (this is why I ended up without this feature in nn model) BMI is trash, neural network was able to find much better correlation between height and weight Oct 8, 2021 路 The ape index is measured because in sports like rock climbing, swimming, boxing, and basketball it’s considered an advantage to have long arms for your height. Being small isn't a bad thing either, most female climbers are pretty short and there are def a few with a pretty negative ape index as well (Chelsea Rude comes to mind, her ape index is something absurd like -7 and she still climbs 5. I also want to get into outdoor climbing but am waiting until I meet people to climb with before I invest in shoes, a harness, caribiners, grigri and rope i. Yay Torso Factor! The real numbers are harder pin down. Are there some specific exercises or May 30, 2023 路 Related: Your Ape Index and 10 Other Really Super Important Measurements Another interesting finding revealed by Randall and Torr is that shorter climbers need the strongest fingers for the grade, with every reduction of 10 centimeters in height correlating to the climber needing to be 2. I think that the physics of climbing (especially in the overhang) favour shorter people because of their power to weight ratio. Ape index is probably a more important consideration as that is just strictly reach. Anyone have some favorite climber girls that are 5’10”+? Jun 4, 2024 路 Some people believe that the greater the ape index, the better climber you will be but does it really offer you an advantage in climbing? Would love to do a similar one but for wingspan length instead! Or even ape index. we all have our own individual styles but just super impressed with her. I am a beginner climber but also a curious guy, and doing a bit of research about best climbers (both male and female) I realised most of them are medium height and not so muscular people. The analysis shows the most important factor in getting better at outdoor rock climbing is going climbing outside (crazy!), followed by several varieties of finger strength and upper-body strength.
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