Double length sling anchor for climbing reddit. Aaaand go enroll in a top rope anchor course.

Double length sling anchor for climbing reddit. Slings are incredibly versatile, light, strong and A double-length sling is the same thing if you choose to completely ignore the convenience factor and adjustability of a PAS it's always the right length, and fully-weight-rated no matter where you clip in. I like using a double-length sling to make a chest harness and hold up one of the ascenders. Aaaand go enroll in a top rope anchor course. I usually carry 12 shoulder length (2ft), 2 double length (4ft) runners, and a cordelette when I climb there. 5 tech cord but more versatile. One quad length nylon sling (grey) and two double length (blue) have never failed to rise to the challenge, and are way less bulky. This allows me to test my rappel before coming off personal. I use a 240 centimeter sling for trad anchors and it works for many different types of anchors as well as being lighter than the same amount of cord. Nice and simple. Multipitch I always clove hitch the rope. I'm a lady climber that does sport and trad climbs. If it's for general anchor building - I've stopped carrying cord. Headlamp lives on A benefit of slings is that they're cheaper than the PAS and they aren't single-purpose, like a PAS is. If you want redundancy (slings can get worn after a while) then put an overhand knot halfway up a double length sling. k. Is it alright to use a knotted sling as a personal anchor system? I know daisy chains are discouraged for the obvious reasons, but is a knotted sling relatively bulletproof? I assume so, but having been surprised by counterintuitive safety hazards I figured it best to ask. I find some usefulness in having the 240cm sling in case I need to use a huge boulder as the anchor (so the slings wouldn't go doubled around). a. If you really want to equalize two bolts try the Quad. Here's what I'd recommend: 30m static rope (9-11 mm) 1 or 2 25ft cordolettes 2 double-length nylon slings 4 single-length nylon slings several non lockers 6 lockers a rope! Climbing Anchors by John Long, or any other anchor-building book This gear will allow you to utilize natural features to build top-rope anchors. Jun 7, 2024 · Some people think this is called the quad anchor because it uses a “quad” length sling, or 240 cm. 5mm tech cord), a quadruple-length sling (240cm), or two 120cm slings. Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Multipitch climbers build anchors with their climbing ropes all the time - so there is little difference. Maybe if I was going super light alpine I'd just use a dyneema sling but I'm not so it works for me. Here’s how to tie it: Unfurl your sling or cordelette into one giant loop and double it into a smaller, two-stranded loop. The length is given as the end to end distance, so the actual length of fabric will be double this. Some areas may have bolted anchors that are easily accessible, in which case you'll just need slings and some more biners. You're good. For multi-pitch trad cordalettes, 7mm cord is pretty standard (17-22ft depending on preference). Slings commonly come in intervals of 60cm and can be referred to as such: single length = 60cm, double length = 120cm, etc. On a multi-pitch climb, it's common for each climber to carry 1-2 extra long slings for this purpose, and from our testing, we think the Metolius Open Loop Sling I find cordellete easier to manage for anchors where a single 120cm sling is insufficient, as you can almost always make a cordellete work. My prusiks are 6mm nylon. I prefer something I always knew to be called the "electricians coil". I only carry webbing while climbing for use in bail anchors, but for canyoneering where it is super common I Yep, static line is probably your best option for extending toprope anchors. Slings are static so a factor two is going to be disastrous. I love not screaming. Rappel off this knot, use the rest of the sling to clip in to the anchors when doing multiple rappels. A 240cm or 480cm sling can be handy when equalising trad anchors that may have three or more pieces and also for wrapping around a tree or rock when building anchors where other pro cannot be found. the ‘double-double’): The YouTuber suggested possibly using two Nice haul! Now you just need a couple more trad draws, a few more nuts or offsets (unless you climb south western US) 2-3 single length slings (for extending cams without wasting a draw, or anchor building) 1 double length sling for bolt anchors/misc. I'm asking reddits opinion on whether people prefer cordelete or slings when building anchors and why their preference leans that way. Depends on the route and the rack. If not, I'll do a sling in each bolt. It's a double length sling that I have bunny ears tied into the end to make redundant and I girth hitch into my harness. One You can equalize a 3 piece anchor with a double-length sling in a sliding X. At most ill do 6 quickdraws, 6 alpine draws, 6 slings, and a double length sling. If your second falls, they fall on you and not the anchor. Instead of doing two overhand knots on the legs and a sliding x, are there any advantages/disadvantages to doing two figure eights instead? ice screw x 1 picket x 1 belay device x 1 pulley x 1 tibloc x 1 locking biners x 3 non-locking biners x 4 pre-tied prusik x 2 pre-tied foot-length prusik x 1 sling x 2 double length sling x 2 extra cordelette Certain items, like the pickets, we may hold off on and only bring 1 up for the group. You don't need to mess with knotting slings, or doubling up to clip to 2 points. And it’s a dirt cheap and simple anchor: You only need four locking carabiners and one double-length sling (48 inches or 120cm). . A 240 cm sling can be handy for many kinds of anchor building, especially for equalizing three points of protection, orslinging around a tree. Now sling length is another aspect to consider. to a locker on each bolt and tie a BFK. Usually bring 8-10 alpine shoulder length draws, 3 double length slings with carabiners over the shoulder ( for extension, anchor building, slinging shit, and rap tether), and often like 4 regular lightweight sport draws. Mammut contact sling is my personal favorite. Depending on the situation I'll either use single length nylon slings or a knotted double that I clip into the anchors. Proper distancing from the anchor affects the entire belaying experience, but adjusting with other systems is basically a guess, and if you guess wrong you have to unclip and reclip, and sometimes retie. e. As others have said. If you extend a piece four feet, you’ve added eight feet to your fall, which is a bit much for safe travel on most blocky trad terrain. You'll have less room at your anchor and be less comfortable. The second overhand can be positioned about two inches from the other end of the doubled runner. Double or triple length slings has been go my go-to multipitch setup for 95% of gear anchors in the US for a while now. The gold carabiner looks like it should be rotated. I read somewhere that daisy chains can be better because the knot creates a stress point in the sling, but now I can't find the article. Make sure to properly tighten your slipknots. The amount of stretch/energy absorption will not be significant and it's the climbing rope's job to absorb force. The best personal anchor will always be Sep 19, 2019 · Rappel extensions started becoming in vogue around 2006 after a climbing accident in Wyoming where a friction hitch backup was likely tended or pushed down by the device causing the climber to lose control and eventually rappel off the end of the rope. He sets up a rappel extension on a double length sling, clipping the atc around an overhand knot in the center, but it doesn't seem like there is backup if that sling were to break. In most cases, if you're asking if something is acceptable to use, it means that you still need more instruction. If you really want to extend a rappel, one shoulder length sling works great, or as Rockso mentioned just put a carabiner in the knot when you tie off a double length sling, making it easy to untie. What type of climbing will you be doing? For me, I go with a pre-built 120cm sling quad anchor for anything bolted, 120cm sling for building trad anchors, and a 20’ cordalette for anywhere I need to extend an anchor. Double the runner and get the stitching positioned towards the end before tying the first of two over-hand knots. It is nice to have a fatter sling for 2-screw anchors (usually a nylon-dyneema blend so it's not too fat) because it's easier to untie when you are moving on from a multipitch belay. a Redditor directed me to the HowNotToHighline YouTube channel. By putting the knot 1/3 of the length out you should have plenty of headroom to clearly weight your rappel before disconnecting from the anchors. It does done stuff a sling doesn't do: I frequently clip to the anchor, weight it, and then adjust. A double length sling is often sufficient to construct a good anchor from a pair of bolts. But for side by side bolts like this, many people find it’s too long, a bit bulky, and hard to rack. Jan 13, 2022 · Master the girth-hitch masterpoint for quick, efficient anchor construction on multi-pitch rock climbs. You can carry fewer runners if you climb on half ropes, which come in handy in the Gunks for protecting your second on the traverses and are nice on some of the long raps. Read the book "Climbing Anchors" by John Long Get a rope backpack because it's going to be a lot more comfortable. My rappelling method is as such: Girth hitch one side of double length sling to your harness tie-in points, put an overhand knot in about half-way up, and put a locker at the very end of the sling to attach yourself to chains I have only had to use the two 30s together once when the hangers were removed from a set of anchors and had to sling a block that was well back from the edge of the climb. Take your double length sling, girth it to your harness. My favorite sling for multipitch trad anchors is the rope I am climbing on. That or a miriad of things a typical sport climber already should have with them. Draws, a couple of lockers plus the one on your belay device, and a double length sling for building an anchor. One-handed thumb adjustment to get the perfect length. Not sure what kind of impulse equations you're looking at, but a factor 2 fall on your dyneema sling connected directly to an anchor (i. Climbing slings are strongly-sewn loops of nylon or dyneema tape. Keep slack out of your static anchors. He immediately thought I was talking about a cordelette or sling anchor that people typically use for a 2 bolt anchor (doubled with limiting knots making a master point with 4 strands). A couple of my thoughts. Your illustration is perfectly safe, but way more complex than it needs to be. You should not be depending on your anchor material to do that. 30 meters seems like a lot of material for an anchor considering most ropes for climbing are 60-70m. This will eliminate the need for nylon slings, prusik cord, and a PAS. If I was in your position I would use a double length sling pre equalized, or a single lengh sling with an overhand in the middle as your anchor. If you meet these criteria, i would recommend a double length (120cm) or a quad length (240cm) dyneema sling depending on the type of anchor you’ll make, with 3-4 lockers. I'm that extra cautious climber that tries to go for redundancy in all things (and ends Your personal sling/anchor should be solid if you know how old it is etcetera. Make sure you've got all the troubleshooting skills down. If you want a cordelette for multi-pitch, I'd recommend 7mm X 20 ft. Sep 1, 2023 · Although double-length slings are most commonly used to extend pieces of protection while on lead to reduce rope drag, quadruple or even longer slings are sometimes used to equalize multiple protection pieces into a secure anchor. 6 slings, 6 alpines, 2 draws, and 2 double length slings = 16 extensions in a single pitch. For the length involved, you should not see much stretch. Rope management is more difficult (especially if other parties are rapping to your station). Use this for gear anchors, tree anchors and so forth Also get a couple double length slings for tied off anchors. I've read that in the scenario in this picture (a sling used to directly attach to the anchor, without any rope in the system) a failure of the sling is quite likely if you fall. One deep rabbit-hole later I’m emerging with questions about two possible anchor designs which recognize knots in dyneema slings = 50% reduction in strength and thus seek to eliminate them: Anchor #1 (a. I like to use a cordalette and build an anchor with 3-4 pieces and a big pre-equalized master point. I forget exactly how you clip it, but it is very similar to the regular 2 piece sliding X. However, doubles come into their own when building belay anchors, when slinging cliff-top trees, as mini Obviously clove hitches are more tolerant of the climber dumbing and letting a bunch of slack form. I personally dont like using sport draws for trad climbing so I carry 10 regular shoulder length slings and 2 double length slings on longer stuff, all racked with 2 carabiners on my harness. I would like to TR at rattlesnake and practice placing pro on the routes. This anchor is fine. Hm, I find in trad climbing that if the good gear placements are any significant distance away from each other that it's not really adequate to just have slings (even double length slings). That gives a couple more options for length based on where you put the biner. Rattlesnake point anchor help Just wondering if there are any fellow Ontario climbers here that have climbed at Rattlesnake Point and what anchor system/materials they bring with them. If you don't have a grigri then a prussik on one of the other lockers and a single length sling for extending the plate. My favorite part is when cleaning up an anchor, I can change the length of the PAS quickly. However, learning how to place traditional gear will give you a lot more I use a nylon double length sling girth hitched through tie in points, overhand halfway up the sling, ATC goes on lower loop, PA locker in the upper loop, prussik on belay loop. But honestly, for simple top ropes that don’t require extension etc, you’ll Probably be fine with just quick draws. I'd also have the best angle possible between the two legs, minimizing the forces on each bolt. Again, both are girth hitched to your harness hard points, or in some cases, a locker on your belay loop, or two non-lockers opposite and opposed on your belay loop. ). It also makes for an easy way to to extend my It’s more efficient to build a pre-equalized anchor (with the same sling pictured) using an overhand or figure eight instead of tying two overhands on each side of your master point. If that is not an option for whatever reason then I use whatever slings I have available on my harness. 2 live trees, at least as big around as your thigh. Rope is dynamic but a factor two on a short length is still going to be uncomfortable. I used a double length sling girth hitched around a tree, locking carabinier and 25' of 1" tubular webbing for each of the two anchors. The slings are redundant by virtue of their being two of them attached to different anchor points. 240 cm is plenty long enough. Some people use a double length sling tied to a master point (my preferred method), some build their anchor out of the rope, some just go directly into the chains with their PAS and a sling. I have read a lot of conflicting information regarding anchors. I use a double length sling and one locker for my PAS (it also incorporates my Belay device to extend the rappel and for redundancy at the anchor. For double length slings (4'), anchor webbing and cordelette, many folks use a twisted rack. Mammut Contact Slings for everything but double length or longer anchor setups. Mar 3, 2025 · Building a quad requires either a cordelette at least 14 feet in length (6mm nylon minimum or 5. But you can't always trust a bolt, so clip two if you can when going in direct. As far as brands go, I absolutely recommend the mammut dyneema slings. This is more than strong enough to hold thousands of pounds. Using the rope to anchor is super easy on bolts, too, if you’re swinging leads. Drop the quad and just run the rope through the lockers on the slings - just like you would TR through two quickdraws. The sewn label and ease of unraveling an alpine draw is worth the premium price imo. I find having something extra only for that purpose is unnecessary and just extra bulk. Warning: This technique only applies if you have safe access to the top of a cliff, where bolt anchors are often placed. For top roping, you can buy about 40 ft. For an anchor, all I have is my trusty double-length sling. With rope you can tie a double bowline off on one, and the other can be whatever you want - a frictionless hitch, a bowline on a bight, or just some bight clipped to a sling around the tree. Don't do that. Clove/8/Bowline/etc. This has generally been sufficient for the multi-pitch routes I've done. Dyneema hardly absorbs water, so it's great for winter climbing extendable runners, draws, everything. There are many ways to set up a top rope anchor and this article covers 7 of them. Probably overkill especially if you're carrying a cordalette and won't need slings at the anchor. A simple, fully adjustable lanyard to make anchoring easier, faster, and safer. I tied a water knot on a bite followed by a finishing knot at each end of the webbing. Get helmets. Aug 16, 2021 · First time multi-pitching? Not sure how to build an anchor? Check out this ultimate guide to get you started in the right direction! I’m looking to set up a top rope anchor off of two bolts with a 10mm double-length sling. total cost for the locker and the sling was maybe $15? for building the anchor it depends on the route I am climbing but I have and use everything from two quick draws to a quad. Bulkier than 5. Standing around for 10min trying to untie a frozen, weighted dyneema sling is bad style. I will generally knot a power point in a double length sling or use two slings if the bolts are pretty symmetric. Then on the other bolt, put a locker on and clove hitch your rope onto that locker. Just tie an overhand on a double length sling into a masterpoint and belay off that using a I haven't carried cordalettes for years. Is it as safe to weight any knotted segment as it is the ends? It's much harder to escape the belay. Very versatile. If the anchor is out of site then use lockers or double and oppose non locking carabiners • related to above, I’d extend the gold cams sling so the carabiner isn’t touching the rock • if the cordellete is one loop there is no need to clove hitch the small cam on the left I tend to use slings or cord when leading in blocks and use the rope when swinging leads. More if the route wanders. Figure eights a little easier to untie than two oberhands, too. May 3, 2018 · From left to right: 120cm Dyneema sling, 120cm nylon sling and a 240cm Dyneema sling. They're available in a range of lengths – your typical trad rack will have 60cm, 120cm and maybe a 240cm length sling on it, but bigger and smaller ones are also available. Love the Master You probably want to use a double-length sling and a quickdraw, or two shoulder-lengths, at least. Slings are incredibly versatile, light, strong and A couple of prussiks or tiblocs, a couple of double length slings, a couple of pulleys, and some anchor building material are all you need. Ofc. I’m looking to set up a top rope anchor off of two bolts with a 10mm double-length sling. For threading through an anchor I usually use 2 quickdraws, or one girth-hitched long sling and a quickdraw. I use a sling and a locking carabiner. If you're going to toprope anchor only, it might be better to get a length of 10mm static line. without a dynamic element in the system between you and the anchor, like a climbing rope) will generate far more than 2kN of force, and will likely result in slings breaking, injury, bolts popping, etc. Sometimes that means untying it and using a figure 8 on a bite on each bolt to get the right length, but for me, having that option makes the cordellete superior to a sling for anchors without uniform spacing. Reply tinyOnion • Additional comment actions Himalayan climbers mostly use the cows tail setup with cord, while here in the US (Denali) the double length slings are used, one for the lobster claw and one for the ascender. The Petzl Connect- by far my favorite new piece of gear from Winter OR last week. Basically, you want all flop, no tension when the rope goes through. Shock load would happen if one side of your sling broke. And I second the advice to get a 120cm sling for general purpose (anchor building, alpine draw, etc. I have seen IFMGA guides use one double length runner to build anchors that supported parties of 3 plus a haul bag. Get some pear shape You're attaching your double length sling via both of your hard points using a girth hitch and then attaching that to one bolt at the anchors. Cinch down the knot portion (bottom/left end in my video) and take up all the slack by pulling on the Depends on your local climbing area. 1x Metolius Alpine PAS, with locker. Hey dudes, I was about to buy some new double shoulder length runners (48 in/ 120 cm), but realized I had some accessory cord (6mm monster cord from… Nov 2, 2017 · These are often called “double length” slings as they are twice as long as your standard “shoulder length” sling. 6 is a good start if you supplement with sport draws for long pitches. Any reason I shouldn't use this system? Mar 13, 2024 · Double-length slings provide a whopping four feet of extension and are more useful for rigging and anchors than for extending a single piece of pro. Do you actually need to set up tree anchors, or are you just basing this off a class you took? I don't know where you climb but most places have bolted anchors. Something between 30 and 60 ft. For sewn slings that refers to the length of the sling, not the total length of the material. Now tie a knot a third of the way out. If shoulder or double length slings aren't long enough, use your untied cordalette instead. Oct 22, 2017 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. You can easily store this system on your harness. Then it's as simple as using that to extend my atc and backing up with an autoblock. My rapp system until this point has been to extend with a knotted sling and then attach an autoblock to my belay loop. 1x Rocky Talky. You can use a quick draw attached to your personal anchor to do this. If the pieces are far from each other, I might build a mini anchor (sliding X) on 2 of the pieces w/ a double length sling to extend them a bit. 1x Nut Tool (actually carry two, but I booty hard) 1x Rap Kit (ATC on AutoLocker, Hollowblock on non-locker) 1x Grigri for lead belay, and most of my top belaying. 1x Double Length (Blue) Nylon Sling, tied into a small quad for bolts. , a couple spare non-locking biners for anchors or using all your cams - and learn to use clove hitches and rely less on the PAS. For alpine I'll sometimes take a 6mm one but it is substantially weaker. Factors like the type of climbing, the length and type of route, the rock and character of the climbing area and your personal climbing style all play a role in how you set up your rack. Me and my partner generally make a sliding X with a double length sling and clove-hitch or PAS into a locker on the master point. Equalization is a myth - especially dynamic In researching anchor designs, pros, cons, etc. If you're only going to be at 2 bolt sport anchors, some people make a quad out of a 240 mm Dyneema sling. For bolted stations it's more convenient to just use a double-length sling (either premade or your own webbing one). What's my best best for an anchor? A sliding-X would make the anchor perfectly equalized, but extensible. ) nylon sling will last much longer and hold up to more wear and tear so would be a good option for your first sling. I recently bought a lot of gear to start climbing outdoors with a few friends, and I went to my local gym to get their opinion on the quality of my gear and how I use it. of tubular 1" webbing and cut it into lengths to make you own double length, or even larger, tied slings. Right now I only have been using double length sling and locking biners for sport climbing. Method two is using two quickdraws and double backing them (clipping them in opposite directions) to yourself and the anchor. There's a lot more going on when you transition to rappel, for instance. Welcome to climbing! Based on this picture, it looks like you wrapped two double length slings around the table leg, then threaded two additional slings through the loops in those, then finished with two opposed lockers. it all depends on the route I am climbing and how the anchors are For example I don't usually bring enough double length slings that I want to use two of them up at a bolt anchor. Ive seen others use 3 or more but i prefer using a Really depends on the scenario. If the bolts are connected with a chain (thus, redundant), I clip to the chain. Also, the locking I wanted to get the communities thoughts on this anchor system I use to clean sport routes. If 10 feet extension from each bolt isn't Two Bolts One Sling I’m looking to set up a top rope anchor off of two bolts with a 10mm double-length sling. I will recommend Crag Daddy by Patagonia Get a 6mm or bigger accessory cord and learn how to tie a quad anchor, purcell-prusik, and auto block. I personally use nylon webbing for my personal anchor. Cordelette, sling, or rope for anchor? Hey, I'm thinking about getting into trad climbing, so I am currently doing quite a bit of research. We also bring up a shovel and probe for the group. Instead of doing two overhand knots on the legs and a sliding x, are there any advantages/disadvantages to doing two figure eights instead? Also, is this method redundant enough while using one 10mm sling? I recommend a carrying double-length sling or a pre-built quad for multi pitch sport. Instead of doing two overhand knots on the legs and a sliding x, are there any advantages/disadvantages to doing two figure eights instead? Also, is this method redundant enough while using one 10mm sling? An anchor refers to the whole system — the anchor points, the protection gear, runners, carabiners and climbing rope. Using a magic x will defeat the purpose of a quad (having ample space to clip in) but isnt un safe. If the slings are going to be loaded over an edge, maybe use thicker nylon slings and double up. having an extra sling has an advantage in other situations. 3x Spare Lockers. The knowledge to use them in the appropriate situation is much harder to come by, however. I recently bought a cordelette so I rarely use the 10 foot webbing anymore but they were handy if anchors were set back slightly and a double length sling wasn't enough. The master point in the anchor pictured isn’t redundant, which is probably why the quad or pre equalized is preferred. A couple small lockers for the bolts and a big locker and matching oval non locker for master point is what I use if I want a super bomber top rope with said tied off sling. And if the slings went doubled, girth-hitching would halve the strength. Just one double length Alpine draw made with a sewn sling can be used in so so so many ways. Cowtail the sling (120cm', or whatever length you prefer)to yourself via belay loop and attach the carabiner to the anchor point. I can use a double length sling for any number of things on a multipitch while a cordallete is generally going to be used almost exclusively for anchoring so using a cord seems like good conservation of pro to me. A basic trad rack might include 12 single-length slings, 4 to 6 double-length slings and 2 triples (or 2 cordelettes) for the anchors. If there are bolted anchors just get a double shoulder length sling and 4 locking biners. I use 120cm slings with a couple knots in them. Do you carry Quickdraws? How Many? Just wondering how many Alpine Draws, Quick Draws, and Single-Biner slings you guys carry for normal single pitch cragging? I normally have 5 single length alpines, 1 double length alpine, and one single length alpine with lockers on my harness - no empty or single biner slings or QDs. In addition, the only setting I really need to be able to adjust the length of it is at belays on multipitches, and a clove hitched rope can be adjusted The 120s are also good for extended gear placements and are also the most common length for equalising sport anchors. Personally, I like a double length nylon sling (like this 16mm one from DMM) tied in a sliding X configuration with two limiter knots for TR on two bomber bolts. yjlqfhj hcchywq oljy ctdhttl bmais ddhoz vfvei jim mfebjq tzurchu